Years ago, I found myself standing in front of my bathroom mirror, holding a bottle of something that promised to “repair,” “renew,” and “rebalance.”
I had bought the expensive products. I followed the routines. I avoided the “bad” ingredients.
And still — my skin was dry, reactive, inflamed, and painfully unpredictable.
I wasn’t trying to fix a flaw. I was trying to feel like myself again.
What made it worse was the shame I carried — the quiet voice that said you’re an esthetician now, you should have figured this out. But my skin wasn’t broken. It was communicating. I just wasn’t listening to it in the right language yet.
That was the turning point that led me to corneotherapy, to whole-skin biology, and eventually to open Rooted Wellness & Apothecary — a space built around supporting the skin, not trying to dominate it.
✨ Listening to the Skin’s Language
Your skin is so much more than a surface.
It’s a living barrier. A communicator. A sensory organ.
It reflects stress, inflammation, hormone changes, immune function — and it always speaks with purpose.
When it’s red, flaky, stinging, or congested — it’s not just reacting.
It’s asking for support.
The question is: are we giving it what it actually needs?
🧬 What Is the Skin Barrier, Really?
The outermost layer of your skin — the stratum corneum — is like a brick wall. Skin cells (the bricks) are surrounded by lipids (the mortar), creating a barrier that protects you from the outside world.
That barrier isn’t just about “keeping things out.” It’s about communication, immunity, hydration, and balance.
And when we unknowingly use ingredients that disrupt that system, we experience:
• Tightness
• Sensitivity
• Chronic breakouts
• Flaking or burning
• Inflammation that doesn’t go away
I lived through all of that. And the more I tried to “treat” it, the more confused my skin became.
🧴 When “Clean Beauty” Isn’t Enough
I had already switched to cleaner, more natural brands — but my skin was still reacting. Why?
Because even the “clean” industry is often built around marketing, not skin health.
I started reading deeper into formulations. Researching emulsifiers. Looking up molecule structures.
And what I found changed the way I practice forever.
So I created the Rooted Skin Wisdom Guide — a list of ingredients I no longer use in treatments or recommend to clients, and why.
It’s not a trend list. It’s a barrier-based, biology-honoring roadmap. And it starts with what I wish I’d known from the beginning.
🌿 What I Leave Out (And What I Use Instead)
1. Petroleum-Based Occlusives
• Paraffinum Liquidum (Mineral Oil)
• Isoparaffin
• Petroleum Jelly (Petrolatum)
• Microcrystalline Wax, Ozokerite, Ceresin
• Synthetic Beeswax
Used in: “healing” creams, ointments, heavy balms
• Why I avoid them: They trap heat, bacteria, and sweat — all while offering no nutrition to the skin.
• What I use instead: Linoleic-rich oils like sunflower and rosehip, which support the skin’s natural lipid structure.
2. Silicones & Synthetic Polymers
• Dimethicone
• Cyclopentasiloxane, Cyclohexasiloxane
• Phenyl Trimethicone
• Amodimethicone
• Polyethylene, Polyacrylamide
• Polyquaternium-7, Sodium Polyacrylate
• Acrylates Copolymer
Used in: Primers, moisturizers, pore-blurring products
• Why I avoid them: They may feel smooth, but they sit on top of the skin and interfere with true healing.
• What I use instead: Aloe vera, glycerin, and skin-compatible hydrators that penetrate and soothe.
3. Harsh Emulsifiers (PEGs, Polysorbates)
• PEGs: PEG-100 Stearate, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
• Polysorbates: Polysorbate 20, 60, 80
• Ethers: Ceteareth-20, Laureth-7
Used in: Lotions, cream cleansers, emulsified masks
• Why I avoid them: They can break down your own skin lipids and cause dehydration over time.
• What I use instead: Gentle, barrier-safe blends like cetearyl glucoside and lecithin.
4. Aggressive Surfactants (SLS, SLES)
• Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS), Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES)
• Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate, Sodium Dodecylbenzene Sulfonate
• Sodium Myreth Sulfate, Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate
• TEA-Lauryl Sulfate
• Cocamide DEA, Cocamide MEA, Cocamidopropyl Betaine
Used in: Foaming cleansers, acne washes, shampoos
• Why I avoid them: They strip the acid mantle and microbiome — leaving the skin raw, tight, or overproducing oil.
• What I use instead: Low-foaming, pH-balanced oil cleansers and hydrating cleansing milks.
5. Sensitizing Preservatives
• Parabens (Methyl-, Propyl-, Butyl-, Isobutyl-)
• DMDM Hydantoin, Imidazolidinyl Urea, Diazolidinyl Urea
• Quaternium-15
• Phenoxyethanol (in high concentrations)
• Triclosan
• Methylisothiazolinone (MI), Benzalkonium Chloride
Used in: Conventional lotions, wipes, some “natural” brands
• Why I avoid them: Parabens, formaldehyde releasers, and even phenoxyethanol in high doses can cause inflammation, rashes, or microbiome imbalance.
• What I use instead: Ferment-based preservatives like radish root, and food-grade systems like sodium levulinate.
6. Synthetic Fragrance & High-Risk Essential Oils
• Synthetic Fragrance: Parfum, Linalool, Citronellol
• High-Risk Essential Oils: Citrus, Tea Tree, Peppermint (in high %s)
• Synthetic Dyes: FD&C Blue No. 1, CI 14720
Used in: Most commercial and luxury skincare products
• Why I avoid them: “Fragrance” can mean hundreds of undisclosed chemicals. Even natural oils like lemon or peppermint can trigger histamine responses.
• What I use instead: Soft botanical hydrosols, infused oils, or no scent at all — especially in repair work.
7. Inert Ingredients the Skin Can’t Use
• EDTA (Disodium, Tetrasodium)
• Triethanolamine (TEA), Diethanolamine (DEA), Monoethanolamine (MEA)
• Polyquaternium-10, Carbomer, Acrylates Crosspolymer
• Sodium Polyacrylate, Vinyl Dimethicone
Used in: Stabilizers, thickeners, textures
• Why I avoid them: If your skin can’t metabolize it, it doesn’t contribute to healing.
• What I use instead: Every ingredient I choose is active — not just in function, but in how the skin responds.
🧴 What I Use Instead (The Companion Guide) Coming Soon
Rooted Skin Wisdom isn’t about fear. It’s about discernment.
It’s about choosing ingredients the skin recognizes. That it knows how to use. That bring something alive back into the barrier.
I created a Companion Guide to share what those ingredients are — the oils, extracts, humectants, and herbs that have transformed my own skin and now support my clients, too.
💬 If You’ve Been Where I Was…
If your skin has made you feel confused, betrayed, or stuck — I want you to know:
you are not the problem.
Your skin is not broken.
And healing doesn’t come from trying harder.
It comes from tuning in. Slowing down. Choosing what aligns.
That’s what Rooted Skin Wisdom is all about.
You can start today — with one product, one decision, one shift toward healing.
And if you’re not sure where to begin?
You’re not alone.
I’d love to help you.